Seoul Hero

Realizing “The Hero’s Journey” in Seoul, South Korea

Friends, Bongeunsa

Filed under: Korean Culture, Life of Nathan, Photoblogging — Sunday, December 10th, 2006 @ 2:37 pm

For Ian, one of my two best friends, and a person who has made Seoul very special for me.

Temple gate

The gate signifies departures. Two days ago I had the pleasure of meeting my friend Wyatt for lunch in Sinchon. It was great to see him again, and we may not have many chances to meet each other before his departure. Then yesterday Chae Young went for a little reunion with three of her best friends, leaving me with a free day. Since it is rare for me to be alone nowadays, I made plans to meet my good friend Ian. Again, all-day meetings with him will be rare, since there is not much time until my own departure, if all goes well. We went to Bongeunsa to take pictures, thus plugging another long-standing hole in my old HifromSeoul blog, where the entry on Bongeunsa only featured pictures of the giant statue. It was a very cold day, and I didn’t bring my jacket (because the subways are always so hot).

The next photographs show the area just inside the outer gate.

area inside the outer gate

The following picture shows the temple store. There are detectors by the doors inside the store.

temple store

Expats in this country will recognize the Shinhan bank machine logo on the sign in front of one of the temple buildings. There seemed to be a bank branch on the grounds, but I didn’t look long enough to be sure.

sign for the temple Shinhan bank machine

The next two shots feature the contrast of new and old. I would have missed the first shot, but Ian spotted it.

Old and new 1

Old and new 2

The next pictures show the temple square from the platform of the main prayer hall, and the main prayer hall itself.

Area in front of the main prayer hall, from the prayer hall platform

Main prayer hall

Interior of main prayer hall 1

Interior shots of the main prayer hall, which is quite beautiful.

Interior of main prayer hall 2

An old man and a cat

Notice the cat in the lap of the ajoshi above. He got up to make his bows, and I kneeled down to take a picture. At that point, this cat, one of many on the temple grounds, jumped into my lap. I patted him, cuddled him, and he purred very loudly! I felt supremely happy; previous visits to Buddhist temples had always reminded me of the emptiness in my life, whereas I now had wife, son, friends, and even this cat.

My newest friend

There were many other cats on the temple grounds. Here’s one of the youngest members of the holy tribe:

Holy Kitten

The next two pictures are interesting because they show–within the same temple complex–different symbols used on the buildings: what I call “the dots” and “the backwards swastika” [not connected to Naziism].

Temple building with dots

Temple building with so-called backwards swastika, and my friend

I rather liked taking that picture of my good friend taking a picture of his own. The next picture shows the two of us in front of the statue…

Yours truly and my good friend Ian

…while the following picture shows one of the demons in relief at the base of the statue. Notice the flower at the base.

A fearsome demon and a flower

The building in the next picture has these wonderfully painted panel scenes underneath it.

Building with the beautiful panels

Panels shot 1

It is a lasting regret that the above shot remains a bit blurry. I had to kneel down on the cold cement and look straight up to take it, but the next one is much better:

Panels shot 2

You are now leaving Bongeunsa, and depending on who you are, you may even soon be leaving the country. Life is difficult, sometimes frightening:

Guardian demon at the inner gate

Remember, though, that friends stick together:

Friendship through time at the outer gate

4 Comments »

  1. bighominid:

    Nathan,

    For what it’s worth, “the dots” are the Three Jewels (”sam-bo” in Korean) of Bul (불), Beop (법), and Seung (승)– Buddha, the Dharma (i.e., the Buddha’s teaching), and the Sangha (i.e., the religious community).

    “Sangha” originally referred only to the monastics, and many Buddhists these days would say that’s still true. Many other Buddhists think “sangha” simply means the community of all practicing believers, monastic or not.

    Great photos! The colorful nature of temple art reflects the influence of Chinese Buddhism; very few Korean temples are starkly laid out in black and white, the way many Zen temples in Japan are.

    Kevin

  2. sumiyoshipilgrim:

    Nice photos of the temple. I still occasionally drop in on Bongeunsa whenever I’m near COEX. Nice peaceful place and kind of fitting, considering it’s so near to COEX and all those busy offices. One thing I have noticed is how much renovation has been going on at the temple since I first started visiting it in 2003. Seems to really be expanding.

  3. San Nakji:

    Ah, it’s near COEX? I was just about to ask. It must be the one I could see from the towers while I was working there. Thank you for satisfying my curiosity about the place. It’s good to know Seoul still has places like this which maintain a certain air of tranquility.

  4. Nathan:

    Thank you, Kevin! That was very interesting.

    Sumiyoshi, one of these days we really ought to meet up. In any case, I’m glad you’re still visiting.

    San Nakji, glad you had your curiosity satisfied.

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